Viticulture in Lower Silesia is a topic so rich and rooted in the region’s history that it became material for a book. What inspired its creation?

This topic has fascinated me for a long time. As a researcher of medieval settlement, I study not only towns and villages but also their economic hinterland – fields, gardens, forests, mills – that is, the entire relationship between humans and the environment and the anthropogenic transformations of the landscape in medieval Silesia. My interest in vines and winemaking goes back several years. It all began during research in the Brno City Archives, where I came across an intriguing letter from the mayor of Świdnica to a Brno burgher, requesting assistance in establishing a vineyard. This discovery led me to search for further traces of viticulture in the region. For years, I collected scattered information about wine and vines in Silesian sources, until finally the time came to gather it all together and present it in the form of a book.

The Lower Silesian Beer and Wine Trail is a cultural route that cultivates and popularizes artisan production in the region. How do winemaking traditions connect and intertwine with the history of Lower Silesia? What were their origins?

I am delighted to observe initiatives aimed at popularizing ancient artisan production in Lower Silesia. Winemaking traditions in the region have a centuries-old history, dating back to the late 12th century. In the Middle Ages, viticulture and wine production developed dynamically, centered on princely courts, Silesian monasteries, and burgher estates. The oldest records concern three locations: the Sobótka area, Legnica, and the Trzebnica Hills. Although winemaking experienced periods of stagnation, including after wars, climate change, and periods of falling prices for imported wines, it was revived in the 18th century at the initiative of Prussian rulers and continued into the 19th century. Today, we are rediscovering and nurturing these traditions, combining history with a modern approach to winemaking and tourism.

Do today’s vineyard locations stem from historical ones? Which regions of Lower Silesia have been most important in wine production over the centuries, and where can we find the most important traces of local viticultural history?

Yes, today’s vineyard locations often overlap with historical viticultural sites, although their owners are not always aware of this. An example is the vineyard near Świdnica, located on the very same hill where, in the 15th century, the Świdnica mayor planned to establish a vineyard with the help of the aforementioned specialist from Brno. In the Middle Ages, vineyards operated in over 50 locations throughout historical Silesia – from Cieszyn and Bielsko to Krosno Odrzańskie and Zielona Góra. In Lower Silesia, the areas on the left bank of the Oder River were particularly important, especially around Wrocław – today’s districts of the city, such as Szczepin, Osobowice, Pracze Widawskie, and Rędzin. Brzeg, Lwówek Śląski, Trzebnica, and Świdnica were also important centers. Vineyards also stretched across the Sudeten Foothills, often on the outskirts of cities, shaping the region’s picturesque landscape. Środa Śląska played a special role, where winemakers even established their own guild, and Środa wine enjoyed a considerable reputation. Traces of this tradition can be found not only in documents and on the city seal, but even in early poetry, demonstrating the crucial role winemaking played in Lower Silesian culture.

Modern viticulture, combined with agritourism, is thriving. Are we far from our ancestors? What was the scale of viticulture in Lower Silesia in past centuries? What led to its decline?

The scale of viticulture in Lower Silesia has not yet matched that of centuries past, but I hope it is on the right track. Interestingly, one thing has remained constant – the size of individual vineyards. In the Middle Ages, although they were numerous and formed entire growing zones, the vineyards themselves were not large. The average medieval vineyard had an area comparable to that of today – usually several hectares. The nature of the work has also remained unchanged – running a vineyard is a year-round activity, requiring both specialized knowledge and patience. As centuries ago, winemakers must contend not only with the vagaries of weather but also with the economic realities of the market. Silesian winemaking began to experience a crisis as early as the 15th and early 16th centuries. Many vineyards disappeared as a result of 17th-century wars and climate change – increasingly harsh winters, wet summers, and frosty springs. However, it wasn’t just the weather that contributed to the decline of the crops. The political instability of Silesia in the 15th century and the declining profitability of production also played a key role. Local production could not compete with cheaper imported wines, especially Mediterranean ones, which were more in line with contemporary tastes. Silesians preferred sweet, intensely flavored wines, which gradually caused local wines to lose popularity.

What significance did viticulture have on the region’s culture and identity? Are there local legends and stories related to winemaking in Lower Silesia?

Undoubtedly, viticulture had a significant impact on the culture and identity of Lower Silesia. Regional wines shaped medieval table culture, increasing the availability of this beverage and making it a crucial element of everyday life. Wine was a symbol of prestige and elitism, but also a beverage present on the tables of princes and bourgeoisie, as well as in city taverns. In Wrocław, in the 15th century, there were two wineries on the Market Square, and wine was served in the famous Świdnicka Cellar and in a dance hall near what is now Traugutta Street. Although its consumption outside designated areas was illegal, it was also drunk in Przedmieście Oławskie and Szczepin, near the vineyards. The furnishings of Wrocław’s burghers’ homes indicate that it was a popular beverage even in respectable households. Wine was therefore not limited to its role as a liturgical beverage – it was served at engagements, weddings, and even during maternity visits. It was also one of the best gifts – the city council presented it to members of parliament and important figures. Today, traces of winemaking tradition can be found in place names, as well as in old satirical and festive songs. They indicate that Silesian wine had a dry, acidic flavor, distinguishing it from the sweet Mediterranean wines popular at the time. This distinctive flavor and long-standing winemaking tradition meant that Lower Silesia forged its own wine culture over the centuries, traces of which can still be discovered today.

What historical factors – wars, border shifts, politics – influenced the development and decline of winemaking in this region?

As I have already mentioned, the erosion of winemaking in the late Middle Ages was the result of many factors operating simultaneously – climate change, political instability (e.g., the Hussite Wars), and a decline in the profitability of production, as local wines were being displaced by imported beverages from southern Europe. This process occurred gradually and at varying rates in different parts of the region. However, even during this period, attempts were still being made to develop winemaking – the aforementioned mayor of Świdnica planned to invest in a vineyard, and vineyards were still being established in some residences. It’s worth remembering that home viticulture was also popular in Lower Silesia. Seedlings often appeared in gardens, not necessarily with wine production in mind – vines also served an ornamental purpose, and their fruit enriched the local diet. The development of viticulture in Silesia began clearly in the late 12th and early 13th centuries, reaching its peak in the 13th and 14th centuries, similarly to other regions of present-day Poland and eastern Germany. This was a period of intensive colonization, the founding of new villages and towns, the adaptation of land for settlement, and the development of parish networks, monasteries, and hospitals. Christianization was a significant factor in the spread of wine, both as a liturgical beverage and as a prestigious drink, considered to have health-promoting properties. Along with the fashion for wine among the elite, the culture of the table changed, and growing demand fueled supply.

So, is it worth returning to tradition?

Of course, it’s worth returning to tradition – and not only from the perspective of winemakers, but also from the perspective of us, tourists and history buffs. Lower Silesia has enormous potential for wine tourism, and combining hiking through the region with visiting vineyards, especially those rooted in ancient traditions, allows for a better understanding of the cultural heritage of this place. Awareness of the historical roots of these vineyards adds depth to the entire experience. It’s not only an opportunity to taste local wines and grapes and enjoy good cuisine, but also a chance to learn about the region’s history through the prism of its culinary and economic traditions. Winemaking is not just about growing grapes – it’s part of a larger story about the people who shaped the landscape of Lower Silesia for centuries.

Dagmara Adamska is a historian, art historian, and medievalist associated with the Institute of History at the University of Wrocław. She specializes in research on medieval settlement, rural planning, and urban planning, with a particular emphasis on the areas of historical Silesia. She is the author of numerous scholarly publications, including the monographs “Devotional Foundations of the Knights of the Duchy of Świdnica-Jawor in the Middle Ages” (2005) and “Village – Town – City. Medieval Settlement in the Upper and Middle Oława River Basin” (2019). She co-authored four volumes of the “Historical Atlas of Polish Cities” (2015–2017) and three volumes of the “Dictionary of Silesian Villages in the Middle Ages” (2014–2023).

Her latest book is a fascinating look at medieval viticulture and winemaking in historical Silesia – a story that combines scientific precision with a passion for discovering the region’s past.

Interview with Prof. Dagmara Adamska — author of the book “Winogrady and Wine Hills. Cultivation and production of wine in medieval Silesia”.

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