Pilgrimage in Lower Silesia has centuries-old traditions. In the past, it was exclusively religious in nature. Modern times create the possibility of being both a pilgrim and a tourist at the same time.
While wandering along the Lower Silesian trails, it is worth remembering that we are following ancient paths, treading in the footsteps of millions of people who walked this way before us carrying their petitions, sorrows, thanks to the holy places. Each of them on the trail left a piece of themselves, creating a unique atmosphere of the road and sacred places. There are places in Lower Silesia where pilgrimage routes intersect. Krzeszów, Świdnica, Jawor, Trzebnica, Ząbkowice Śląskie, Henryków… here history and tradition were created, here Polish statehood and national identity were formed. And in between, the magnificent Sudeten nature: mountainous landscapes, flowered meadows, picturesque fields, secluded villages and small quiet towns. Wandering along the Lower Silesian pilgrimage routes is the best cure for professional burnout, omnipresent stress and the fast pace of modern life.
The destination of pilgrimages along the Way of St. James is the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostella in Spain, where, according to legend, St. James is buried. Circa. 44 St. James the Apostle was beheaded with a sword on the orders of Herod Agrippa, thus becoming the first martyr among the apostles. According to legend, his body was transported by boat to Spain and buried in the place where the city of Santiago de Compostella is located today. A chapel was built over the tomb, and later a magnificent cathedral, which became a pilgrimage destination for the faithful from all over medieval Europe. Existing for more than 1,000 years, the Way of St. James is one of the oldest and most important Christian pilgrimage routes (the first documented arrival of a pilgrim was in 950). Its special feature is that there is no single pilgrimage route, and participants can reach their destination by many different routes. From the Middle Ages onward, the main axis of the Way of St. James was the Via Regia, or Royal Road, the construction of which was initiated by Roman armies, and which in later times evolved into a historic trade route connecting Spain with Russia. Pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostella reached this tract by smaller – dirt and forest roads, along which chapels, churches, inns and night shelters sprang up like mushrooms. Pilgrimage in the Middle Ages was mainly religious in nature: to strengthen faith, to do penance, to make requests for healing or for thanksgiving purposes. Pilgrims were the greats of that world (Charlemagne, Isabella of Castile, St. Ignatius of Loyola), but also innumerable people of poorer states. During the heyday of the pilgrimage movement, in the 14th century, more than a million people walked the route each year. From Poland, pilgrims included the Radziwill family and Jakub Sobieski – father of King John III Sobieski, the victor from under Vienna. Pope John Paul II visited Santiago de Compostella twice. After his visit in 1982, the Council of Europe recognized the Way of St. James as a route of special significance for the culture of the continent, and in 1987 as a European Cultural Route. The road has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993.
Three different sections of the St. James road run through Lower Silesia.
The St. James Trail is marked with shells and yellow arrows. In Poland, however, it has not been possible to standardize their design, and that is why some trails are marked with a white shell with a red cross-arm, and others with yellow shells. On the Jacob’s trail a multitude of attractions await pilgrims – museums, historic religious buildings, unique works of art, and above all the opportunity to commune with nature and the picturesque landscapes of the Lower Silesian countryside. On the way, in Glogow, it is worth seeing the pink Bridge of Tolerance. In Boleslawiec, the longest railroad viaduct in Poland over the Bóbr River valley fascinates those passing through. This remarkable achievement of technical thought is also an openwork work of art. Boleslawiec is also famous for its diverse, original and beautifully decorated ceramics. Deviating slightly from the route near Brzeg in the direction of Malujowice, one can see village churches with medieval paintings – the so-called Brzeg polychrome trail. Being in Środa Slaska, it is impossible to miss its famous golden treasure – an impressive collection of medieval coins and jewels of Czech monarchs (found by chance in 1985 and 1988 during construction works). And from there it’s not far to the Kargul and Pawlak Museum in Lubomierz – the town where the iconic Polish comedy trilogy was filmed. Anyone wandering along the trail marked by the shell not only has the opportunity for a spiritual experience, but also for close contact with the history and grandeur of Lower Silesia.
The Cistercians are a monastic formation founded in French Burgundy as early as the end of the 11th century and are therefore considered one of the oldest orders in the world. During the time of Abbot
Bernard (later a saint), the order flourished, which was expressed, among other things, in the expansion of Cistercian ideas throughout Catholic Europe. The Cistercians settled in Lower Silesia thanks to the efforts of Duke Boleslaw the Tall, grandson of Boleslaw the Wrymouth. It was thanks to him that the first abbey of this order in the region was established in Lubiaz in 1163. It is the largest and most representative complex of Cistercian buildings in this part of Europe. Due to its impressive size and location on a small hill over the Oder River, it can be seen perfectly from a distance. The abbey owes its current appearance to reconstructions and modernizations carried out in the 17th and 18th centuries. It’s hard to say what amazes more in the baroque splendor of the halls: the mirrors and wall ornamentation or the gleaming marble floor mosaics. The complex includes the Abbotsford Palace with its dining room, the Prince’s Hall, library and summer refectory, and the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary.
Lubiaz lies exactly in the middle of the Cistercian trail. From here the trail continues east to Trzebnica, then south to Świdnica, Henryków and Kamieniec, and west to Legnica, Jelenia Góra and Bard, to end in Krzeszów. In Trzebnica in 1202 Prince Henry the Bearded, at the request of his wife Jadwiga, later a saint, founded the first female monastery in Lower Silesia – for Cistercian nuns, who came from Bamberg. Since 1267, when the Silesian princess was declared a saint, her tomb in the Trzebnik basilica has been a destination for pilgrims from Poland, Germany and the Czech Republic. This Romanesque church was rebuilt several times to give it the Baroque décor that can still be admired today in the 18th century.
Also in the interior design of the Henryków abbey, few Romanesque details remain. And it was here that Abbot Peter wrote down the monastery chronicle in 1268-73, in which a sentence in Polish was recorded for the first time, which reads “Day ut ia pobrusa, a ti poziwai” (Give, let me grind, and you rest). The monk immortalized the words said to his wife by a peasant from the monastery’s servants (this chronicle, known as the “Henrykowska Book,” is now in the Archdiocesan Museum in Wroclaw). Like other Cistercian buildings, the monastery church was repeatedly
rebuilt, and in the 17th century it was modernized according to Baroque fashion. It survived the turmoil of war virtually intact. Among the various Baroque works and details, special attention is drawn to the magnificent stalls, which took unknown masters 150 years to complete. The Chapel of St. Magdalena houses the Mausoleum of the Ziębice Piasts, with one of the oldest Gothic double tombstones in Poland – that of Duke Bolek I and his wife Jutta.
The history of the settlement of Cistercians in Kamieniec Ząbkowicki was turbulent. At the beginning of the 13th century an Augustinian monastery stood there, founded by the Bishops of Wroclaw. In 1240, due to internal problems in the Augustinian order, the Kamieniec outpost was liquidated. Under such circumstances, Kamieniec was taken over by the Cistercians. The Augustinians from Wroclaw tried to reclaim the monastery by forcibly removing the Cistercians and re-establishing their provost in Kamieniec. This angered the bishop of Wrocław to such an extent that he placed a curse on the perpetrators of the raid. Eventually the dispute was settled by a papal legate, giving the monastery in perpetuity to the Cistercians. The Cistercian church in Kamieniec Ząbkowicki was also altered in the Baroque era (around 1700). Great damage was done to the monastery and church by a fire in 1817. Today the post-Cistercian temple is a parish church.
The Cistercian trail ends with a visit to Krzeszow – a picturesque village among mountains, fields and meadows. Krzeszow abbey, like the one in Lubicz, is one of the most outstanding examples
of Baroque architecture in Europe. Construction of the church began in 1728, and its walls are decorated with magnificent frescoes are by Michael Willmann. The series of 50 paintings depict the story of St. Joseph and the Holy Family.
The Cistercians left behind not only magnificent Baroque buildings. It should be remembered that their centuries-long presence in Lower Silesia was not limited to construction alone. The order, faithful to the principle of “ora et labora” (pray and work), exerted a tremendous influence not only on religion and culture, but also Krzeszów on the region’s economy. Known for their love of agriculture, the Cistercians established vineyards and fish ponds, built weaving mills, tanneries, mills and breweries. It’s safe to say that Cistercian monasteries were centers of technical progress and economic development in the region.
There are 17 villages along the route, each with a fascinating history and historic religious sites. Here are the most interesting of them: In the small town of Wambierzyce, picturesquely located at the foot of the Table Mountains, there is the mighty Basilica of Our Lady of Wambierzyce – Queen of Families. The builders of the church were modeled on Solomon’s temple in Jerusalem; it is to them that the basilica owes its monumental entrance staircase and richly decorated Baroque facade. Inside the basilica, on a magnificent altar is a fi gure of Our Lady of Wambierzyce, whose miraculous action turned the small town into a place of Marian devotion. Right next to the basilica – the famous calvary with 74 chapels and shrines. A great tourist attraction is also the moving nativity scene designed by Longin Wittig, a local clockmaker who carved the first moving mechanical figures for his little son to comfort him after his mother’s death. Today the nativity scene consists of 800 fi gures of people and animals, 300 of which are movable. The figurines depict biblical scenes, from the life of the Holy Family, but also genre scenes contemporary to the author: the work of miners underground or a cheerful village party.
In the Snieznik massif on Mount Igliczna awaits pilgrims to the Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Snows. This tiny church was most likely built in the 18th century, but its current decoration comes from Mayer’s Munich workshop and dates to the turn of the 20th century. In the sanctuary, in the center of the neo-Baroque altar, in a display case supported by angels, stands the miraculous fi gure of Our Lady Cause of Our Joy. Pilgrims and tourists have been flocking to the shrine for years to ask for the fulfillment of requests, to give thanks for the successful turn of events and to fill their eyes with the magnificent view of Czarna Góra, Snieznik and the Klodzko Valley. In Czermna, pilgrims can reflect on the passing of time in the Skull Chapel, made at the behest of the local parish priest from bones and human remains from periods of wars and epidemics of the 16th and 17th centuries.
The next stop on the trail of Marian shrines is Bardo Slaskie. Founded as a defensive stronghold, the town was bought in 1299 by the Cistercians, who built the first church on the site of the former castle chapel. Today, the main center of Marian devotion is the monumental Baroque Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary, where the miraculous statue of the Virgin Mary of Bardzka reigns. From the church it is very close to the Museum of Sacred Art with its valuable exhibits. Unusual experiences can be experienced by walking across the stone bridge over the Klodzko Nysa River. Until recently, St. John of Nepomuk (stone fi gure from 1709) guarded the town and its residents from the whims of the inconspicuous river, which during the spring thaw had already caused flooding and flooding many times.
Wandering around Lower Silesia, tourists and pilgrims will repeatedly come across traces of St. Hedwig. Many churches bear her invocation, and many places are associated with her. St. Hedwig is a historical figure, permanently connected with the Lower Silesian region, and her biography is richly documented in written sources.
Hedwig, daughter of Bertold Count of Andechs, arrived in Lower Silesia in the mid-12th century as the wife of Duke Henry the Bearded. She was famous for her deep religiosity and ascetic lifestyle. On the other hand, she became known as a person sensitive to the suffering and misery of her neighbors, especially those of lower status. It was thanks to her persuasion that Henry the Beard financed the construction of the first monastery for Cistercian nuns in Trzebnica. Soon after, a new church was built, dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary and St. Bartholomew the Apostle – the prince’s favorite saint. St. Hedwig spent the last days of her long life in the Trzebnica monastery, where she died at the age of 70. On October 16, 1243, she was buried in the monastery church, and 24 years after her death Pope Clement IV declared her a saint. Pilgrimages to the tomb of St. Hedwig of Silesia in Trzebnica are a special tradition that dates back to the mid-13th century. St. Hedwig is considered the patron saint of Silesia. She is the protector of marriages and families, and the patroness of Polish-German reconciliation and understanding. Taking the opportunity to be in Trzebnica, you can take a walk along the so-called Big Path of St. Hedwig. This is a city route of several kilometers, during which pilgrims stop at seven meditation stones, recalling the seven virtues of St. Hedwig.
The Route of Shrines and Pilgrimage Centers includes the Via Sacra tourist route. The Via Sacra, the Sacred Way, is traditionally associated with Rome, where it led from Velia Hill through the Roman Forum to the Capitoline Hill. But the Via Sacra also runs through Lower Silesia, upper Bohemia and German Lusatia along a trail of monuments of three cultures that have been linked together for many centuries. For the creation of this route, ancient trade and pilgrimage routes were used, along which it has been possible to travel without visas or passports since relatively recently thanks to the enlargement of the European Union.
The Via Sacra starts in Zittau and sees the Great Lenten Curtain from 1472. Later, while wandering through the areas inhabited for centuries by Lusatian Serbs, it is advisable to visit Bauzen (St. Peter’s Cathedral with cathedral treasury), Panschwitz-Kuckau (splendidly preserved Cistercian abbey of St. Marienstern), Görlitz (Holy Sepulchre, Way of the Cross and Evangelical Church of St. Peter and Paul) and Ostritz (magnificent Cistercian abbey with St. Marienthal hospital attached to the monastery). On the Polish side, an important stop on the Via Sacra road is Jawor, with its UNESCO World Heritage-listed Church of Peace. It is one of three churches of peace in Lower Silesia built after the end of the Thirty Years’ War. They were built in Glogow, Swidnica and Jawor using only lightweight, non-permanent building materials (straw, clay and wood). Not surprisingly, when a fire broke out in the Church of Peace in Glogow in 1758, the building burned to the ground almost in the blink of an eye. The Swidnik and Jawor churches can still be admired today. These temples belonged to Protestants, and permission for them was obtained with great difficulty from Austrian Emperor Ferdinand III. Hence the builders’ desire to create buildings that could accommodate as many believers as possible. This effect was achieved through the use of two stories of balconies, called emporas. As a result, the church, whose interior resembles an amphitheater, can accommodate up to 6,000 worshippers.
In northern Bohemia, the Via Sacra passes through Hejnice (Church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary), Jablonné v Podješti (Basilica of St. Lawrence and St. Zdislava), Mnichovo Hradišti (St. Anne’s Chapel) and Český Dub (St. Zdislava Commandery of the Joannites). The Sacra Trail of Shrines and Pilgrimage Centers is a wonderful break from the rush and stress of everyday life. Physical and spiritual contact with nature, history and religion provides relaxation and inner tranquility. To everyone – regardless of faith